surfing san diego

>> Saturday, December 12, 2009

i have to admit, pulling into san diego i was a bit nervous thinking about the idea of surfing the forecasted "overhead to double overhead."  but being dry for a couple weeks... i got over the nerves quickly, picked a mellow beach break and paddled out.  it turns out i am enough of a surfer to mack on the head high pacific ground swell.  i had a couple really good sessions at pacific beach, some of the best surfing i have ever experienced.


  ib pier

la jolla

pb and mission

my first session went several hours into dusk

sunset over tourmaline surf park

i am ready for the rest of this blessed coast, next bring on huntington!

Posted by andrew at 11:48 AM
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blogger back story

my wife and i have had a fairly mundane life so far. we live in northern delaware where we met, fell in love, bought a house and got married. we enjoy traveling, camping, surfing and eating well and we do not have any children. we are in our mid-thirties and have average careers, not glamorous or high paying, but consistent none the less. as time passes day to day in our mundane life there has been something growing stronger inside of us for years. that something is the need to break out of our slumber and live life to the fullest. we want to see the world and find a place by the edge of the sea to call home and open our own business. we keep revisiting this idea, reinventing the plan, but never following through. last december we got serious... we wrote down goals, step by step, to move towards achieving our dreams. we created a budget and decided we could feasible travel in our pop-up camper for 3 months exploring the coast in search for the place we wanted to live. we saved money for traveling, we got our house appraised, we worked on curb appeal & we sold cumbersome unessential possessions. last big step was to sell our house and our target was September. we finally got our house on the market on friday, september 25. we had
several contingency plans for different times when it would sell. to our astonishment the house sold in 48 hours!

on surfing

in 2004 my parents took my entire family on a Hawaiian cruise. during this cruise i had a life altering experience... a surf lesson on the island of maui. being a water person already, i immediately i had a definitive connection with surfing. upon arrival back in delaware i went out and purchased my first surf board. i started surfing the local breaks occasionally. i got my closest friends into it and they too ended up buying boards. occasionally turned into frequently and then every day off of work. my first board turned into several and then into a quiver. surfing started as a hobby, a mere fascination and now is a lifestyle that provides me spiritual well being. the connection to a higher power is never more present than during a good dawn session. out in the line up the stressful hustle bustle of life melts away and i can get quiet with god and recharge my internal battery. i'm sure surfing means different things to different people, but for me it is about the soul. i feel i am a better person because what surfing does for me and i will pursue that feeling for the rest of my life.

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